10 Questions

I was asked to speak to a small group of ladies about any beauty topic I would like. I thought I would open the session with the the top 10 frequently asked questions I get when I am working. I was just getting ready to type them up when I thought you might enjoy hearing them too!

1. What shampoo/conditioner should I buy at the drug store?

A: I am not a typical stylist. I am not going to tell you that you must buy a professional shampoo/conditioner from me or from a salon. I will say that most professional brands are formulated to be color safe but I definitely have had bad experiences with products within  the professional range. I try my best to stay with more natural products and products that are Leaping Bunny certified (no animal testing of any kind). The best advice I can give you in choosing a product is to choose according to the condition of your hair. If you spend money on chemical services you absolutely must protect your investment and buy a good shampoo/conditioner. I would recommend a sulfate free shampoo that is labeled "color safe". The brands I most recommend are:

I love this brand. They are a great company to support. You can read about how they are different at www.aghair.com.

This is another great company to buy from. You can read why at www.yestocarrots.com.

2. What are the worst hair products on the market?

A: This is a hard question to answer. The first thing I do to check on a product is to search for it on www.ewg.org. This is the Skin Deep cosmetic database. Their mission is to give information on beauty products to ensure the safety of human health and the environment. Currently there are no regulations on beauty products. It looks like of the products they have reviewed, John Frieda is the most harmful in the drug store category and Biosilk is the most harmful in the professional category. I really stay away from most brands until I know what's inside the product.

3. If I wax my face will my hair grow in thicker?

A: I would say yes and no. No, your hair won't really grow in thicker. Yes, your hair will grow back and you may notice it more. Waxing is really the best hair removal method if you are wondering what to do with unwanted facial hair. Last year I did a really long post about hair removal. Check it out for a more lengthy discussion.

4. Why does it cost so much money to get my hair done?

A: It's hard to believe that people ask me this question, but they do. When you come to see a professional stylist you are paying for several things. First, you are paying for the expertise. If you could do it yourself you wouldn't be coming in to the salon. Beauty school is hard work and costs a decent chunk of change. Most of us really do no more after going through it. We also have to pay for at least 7 hours a year of continuing education that doesn't come cheap.  Second, you are paying for our overhead. We still have to purchase tools, supplies and pay rent/bills. Lastly, most stylists do not have a retirement fund or private health insurance and the work we do is extremely hard on our bodies. We charge more because those things have to be taken in to account.

5. Do I need to shampoo everyday?

A: No. I actually recommend that you wait at least two days between shampooing. Some people can't deal with going more than 24 hours and I understand that. If you love to wash your hair everyday and your hair is in good condition than go for it. If you have dry or curly hair I especially recommend you wait. The natural oils from your scalp are really good for your hair. Buy a natural bristle brush and brush them through. This really is a personal preference though. You aren't going to damage your hair by shampooing everyday, but you may dry it out which will increase your oil production.

6. How fast does hair grow? Is shedding OK?

A: Hair grows on average about 6 inches a year. There are three stages of hair growth. The active stage (Anagen) can last from 2-5 years and is when the hair grows the most. About 85% of your hair is in this stage at any time. How long your hair stays in this stage is determined by genetics. The transitional stage (Catagen) lasts about 2 weeks. During this stage the hair follicle shrinks and the hair strand rests and detaches itself from its nourishing blood supply. The shedding or resting stage (Telogen) lasts 1-4 months. The hair follicle remains dormant. So yes, it's healthy to shed hair. 10-15%  of your hair will be in this stage at all times.

7. How damaging is it to color your hair?

A: This depends on your stylist! No color service has to be damaging. Coloring your hair does change the texture and chemical properties of your hair. Your stylist should explain to you how to care for your hair after any chemical service. 

8. What should I tip my stylist?

A: Again, it's hard to believe I get asked this question but I do, frequently. A tip is appreciation for a job well done. I feel a tip is a gift and never expected. If I had to say, I would say that 20% is customary.

9. Can you tell me what over the counter dye to buy?

A: NO! There are only a handful of situations where I think it's alright to color your hair at home. Sorry ladies but I can pick you out a mile away. Coloring your hair at home may save you money but it isn't doing you any favors.  

10. How often should I get my hair cut?

A: This really depends on you and your hair texture and condition. To me a trim is less than half an inch. If you are growing your hair out and it is in good condition I suggest a trim every 10-12 weeks. If you have just had a perm or other chemical service I suggest a trim every 4- 6 weeks. Trimming your hair every 6 weeks will help you maintain your style.

A Summer Session

 Airbrush Make-up by OCC in my favorite 80's Caboodle!

- Loose basket weave detail with a twist-

- Chignon at the nape-

Thank you to Katie Pitts and Sarah Throop, my two partners in beauty crime for the day. These images have not been edited to make Katie look perfect, although she is pretty perfect already.

 I like to keep it real!

Mary

July 2012

twobirdsphoto.com

I have been a slave to commitments all summer. That is why I haven't kept up with blogging. I am one of those people who can only handle so much before I shut down. The blog is usually the first thing to get cut. 

Thought I would just share a few images from some of my summer work. I have a few fun sessions scheduled for August so stay tuned!

The above photo is hair and makeup for a photo workshop shot by Jonathan Canlas. I really don't know anything about Jonathan Canlas but my friends at twobirdsphotos.com modeled for him. It was fun. The braid I did was a three part french braid. I thought about doing it as I was driving through Nebraska this summer. I am happy with the way it turned out.

I had the honor of doing make-up for this fantastic bride and her party. I have known Stephanie for years and was thrilled to be a part of her day. I also enjoyed the food!

twobirdsphoto.com

My little sister Abigail got married last month. I haven't gotten the professional pics back yet. It was a lovely day. The top picture is my daughter Lucy, sister Arwen and niece Emily. The second picture is my son James. The third picture is my sister Abi, my niece Eowyn and my now Brother-in-law Israel. I worked my butt off for this wedding but the hair and make-up was stress free. Everything turned out perfect.

Hair History: 1960's

My current collaborative work with photographer Jake Moreland of Two Birds Photography. www.twobirdsphtots.com.

Thanks to our beautiful and desirable models.

I love my work and I love the 60's.

MaryEllenLeRoy: Oil Slick

MaryEllenLeRoy: Oil Slick: Many of you have asked me about clogged pores, large pores, cleansers, oily skin, acne and other facial dilemmas. I think I can help all of ...

Oil Slick

Many of you have asked me about clogged pores, large pores, cleansers, oily skin, acne and other facial dilemmas. I think I can help all of you in this post. I know it's hard to wade through all the stuff written about skincare. It is even more difficult to choose what to buy. Skin care is almost always expensive, requires so many steps and you can't even get a guarantee that it will work! I have a solution that I know works.

Cleansing with oil is the solution. I wasn't convinced at first but once I tried it I was sold. I have been cleansing my own skin and my client's skin for over a year with fantastic results. Prepare to be amazed.

We have all been taught since puberty that our goal should be removing the oil from our face as it causes blackheads and acne. The natural solution for this is to buy a detergent based products, or so we thought. The problem is that when we strip our skin of it's natural oils our skin actually produces more oil. Oil is the skin's natural defense system to protect, moisturize and heal. Our largest organ knows how to adapt. It will work hard to protect itself and you will be left with an oil slick.

It's not hard to understand why we have been taught the way we have. Skin care is a thriving business that makes millions of dollars each year. Everyone wants to sell their product. If they teach us to remove our oil and then tone and moisturize they are selling us 3 products instead of one! It really is a vicious cycle and I know very few women who are happy with their skin despite spending gross amounts of money on skin care from the zombies. Yes, I said zombies. Don't turn in to a zombie by just buying whatever the commercials or your customer service representative tells you. Most of the time your best interest is not in their best interest!

Oil cleanses oil. Yes you heard me right. Do not be afraid to put oil on your face or even in your hair. Oil alone does not cause blemishes. Acne is caused by other factors like hormones, bacteria and dead skin cells. If you have skin problems the best thing you can do is use an oil cleansing method.

There are many oils to choose from and I am going to highlight a few along with the technique. I am still doing a bit of research on oils but can give you a good start. Remember that you do not need to use makeup remover as you will be unclogging and cleansing your pores. You can do this every few days or as needed.

Technique First
1. Find an empty container. Glass is always best but plastic will work,
2. Blend your oil using the guide below.
3. Pour a quarter size amount into you palm.
4. Gently massage all over face in an up and out motion. Do this for a few minutes.
5. Steam your face. You can do this with a facial steamer(20 bucks from amazon.com) or you can use a washcloth. Soak the washcloth in hot water and cover your face. Repeat this several times.
6. Gently remove oil from face with wash cloth. Scrubbing is not necessary.
7. Use a small drop of oil if needed to moisturize.

OIL BLENDS

Sensitive skin: Almond Oil, Avocado Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Camelina Oil

Mix 50/50 with Olive Oil

Skin Conditions: Avocado Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Black Seed Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Pomegranate Seed Oil,Shea Nut Oil

Mix 50/50 with Olive Oil or Almond Oil

Acne: Neem Oil, Black Seed Oil,  Castor Oil*, Coconut Oil

 Mix 60/40 with Almond Oil, Sunflower Oil or Olive Oil

*Castor Oil does pose a threat to human rights due to the way it has to be harvested. FYI

Aging Skin:Baobab Oil, Meadowfoam Oil, Rosehip Seed Oil, Camelina Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Wheat Germ Oil

Mix 50/50 with Sunflower Oil, Almond Oil or Avocado Oil

Dry Skin:Safflower Oil, Argan Oil, Apricot Kernel Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, 

Mix 50/50 with Sunflower Oil, Olive Oil or Almond Oil

Oily Skin:Apricot Kernel Oil, Avocado Oil

Mix 50/50 with Sunflower or Almond Oil

Mountain Rose Herbs is a great place to buy oils or do more research.

Vegetable Oils.org is also very helpful.

Good Luck!

To Poo or not to Poo.

Many of you have been asking me about the "No Poo" method of cleansing hair. I thought I would share my thoughts and experiences without getting too scientific.

The "No Poo" method of cleansing hair is exactly what it sounds like. You stop using shampoo completely and let your own hair's oils nourish and condition the hair. It's something that people have done for hundreds of years. You have to keep in mind that having unlimited water supply and mass produced perfumed soaps is kind of a new thing,  when you think about our history of getting clean. Forty years ago women would never have thought of washing their hair everyday, and in the early 20th century women only washed their hair every 3-4 weeks. The main reason we shampoo daily is because it's what is culturally acceptable and because there are lots of companies that want to sell us their products.

You really have to be careful in today's market place when purchasing cosmetics of any kind. Most products are not regulated at all and contain damaging chemicals. (Although, shampoo is not as worrisome because hair doesn't absorb chemicals in to the body and shampoo is washed out promptly.) It's important to know what is in your bottles though. Even essential oils, herbs and plant extracts can be harmful if not used correctly. My advice is to choose products that contain few ingredients and are manufactured by responsible companies. We are so used to just purchasing without thinking and that needs to stop because there are too many people not looking out for our good, but looking to their own greed. You can check the website cosmeticdatabase.com for well studied reports on products in the market place. I will also include a list of reputable companies that I use at the end of this post.

There are actually very few hair products you need to use. Your natural hair oils can keep your hair conditioned and styled. But "No Poo" is a really rough transition and it isn't for everyone. The first 6 weeks your hair goes through a detox phase (it might be called something else officially but detox is what I call it). This is because the scalp has been stripped of it's natural oils for so long that it will "catch up" when you stop using the cleanser. Some folks will have a harder time with this than others. If you can make it through this heavy oil production time you will be rewarded. Your hair will have unbelievable shine and body.

Here's how it goes:
Mix a Tablespoon of Baking Soda and water until it forms a paste. Scrub in to the scalp with the balls of your fingers(no nails!). Massage well and let sit for a few minutes.Rinse.

Next add 2 tablespoons of Apple Cider Vinegar to a cup of water. Pour this over the hair ends. Leave one for a few minutes and rinse.

*Please note that you may not like your scalp smell. It might be strong in the beginning. You can spray lavender or peppermint oil to help this. Both oils are great for scalp health.
*It's really important to brush your hair dry with a natural bristle brush(unless you are vegan or concerned about animal rights then use a synthetic bristle that is as close to a natural bristle as possible). Start at the scalp and pull through the hair. Do this 100 times just like your Grandma told you to. This helps to spread your natural hair oils throughout the hair strands.
*If you are a work out queen and worry about sweat, don't worry about sweat. Rinse your hair after a work out with warm water and gently massage the scalp. Sweat and oil are two different things.

Here are some companies I respect and like to use:

-Dr. Bronner's Magic All In One Soaps-they are fair trade, use earth friendly materials, contribute to charity and treat their employees incredibly well. I especially like the peppermint for scalp problems and the unscented for the babes.www.drbronners.com

-Frangipani: This is a small business out of Indiana. The founder has extreme allergies and developed her own products to accommodate her sensitive skin. She is a special lady. I especially like the Shea Butter softening lotion. I use it for everything, even lip balm!http://www.frangipanibodyproducts.com/

More to come but now I'm tired!

Good Luck!